Discovery Ski Area: Your Next Epic Montana Ski Trip

Want excellent terrain for all levels? And at a great price? Discovery Ski Area by Philipsburg is the hill for you.

Take a moment to imagine your next destination ski trip. Your mind almost certainly went to Utah or Colorado, maybe Vermont if you live out East (right?).

There’s deep powder, speedy lifts, a swanky bar, and probably a big hot tub to soak in. That is, for better or worse, how most of us plan a big ski trip. We look for the tallest mountain, the deepest snow, the best amenities, and much to our chagrin, the most painful price tag.

If you’re being honest with yourself though, how many days of that trip will you get out on the slopes? How many runs can you make before the lifts shut down? How many of those 2,000 acres of fresh powder will you actually ski on? My guess is that you’re buying a ticket to more hill than you’ll ever need.

That’s where Montana comes in, with its many hidden gem ski hills offering a unique and authentic experience sans the crowds, commercialization, and cost. While we still have a couple amenity-heavy resorts – Big Sky, and to a lesser extent, Whitefish – most of Montana’s hills are unpretentious affairs, frequented primarily by locals. In most of the state, lift tickets, accommodations, and food cost a fraction of what they would at big-name resorts, and still offers some spectacular terrain.

While nearly all Montana ski hills (cough, besides Big Sky) are underrated, in my opinion, perhaps none quite as much as Discovery Ski Area near Anaconda and Philipsburg. Disco has a vertical drop similar to Alta, acreage surpassing Deer Valley, and a dozen double black diamonds on its backside. This mountain is no slouch when it comes to terrain.

On top of that, Discovery ranks as one of the least expensive ski areas in Montana, a state already known for dirt-cheap lift tickets. So why is it still a Montana secret?

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The Man, the Myth, the Mountain: How Discovery Was Built

While a few of Montana’s ski hills, like Red Lodge and Showdown, predate World War II, Discovery is, by comparison, young. Built in the early 1970s, when mines in Anaconda and Butte were still pumping out copper, the new ski area was supposed to bring outdoor recreation to the toiling masses.

Unfortunately, those mines and the nearby Anaconda smelter were operational for less than a decade before transitioning to their current status: Superfund sites. Needless to say, this was not so good for the area’s ski industry.

By that time, Discovery was already in bad shape, with a deteriorating lodge and lifts requiring extensive maintenance, and skiers had slowed to a trickle. The hill was quickly sold off during this reversal of fortunes, purchased by Peter Pitcher, whose family developed what is now Ski Apache in New Mexico.

Pitcher not only revitalized the existing structures, but in the first decade of owning the hill, he added hundreds of acres of new terrain, along with the Limelight and Granite lifts that opened up Discovery’s epic back half.

Unlike the mine owners that came before him, Pitcher wasn’t interested in making a quick buck and hightailing it out of town when business slumped. He built a loyal customer base through hard work and innovation, always reinvesting his profits into the hill.

Today, his son Ciche, who was only three when his father bought Discovery, continues this legacy of continual improvement. This past summer, he installed a half-acre solar array, which will provide up to 70% of the electricity needed to run the hill’s main chairlift. Just one more way Discovery is ahead of the curve.

Why Visit Discovery Ski Area?

Discovery is primarily the domain of locals from Butte (an hour away), as well as Anaconda and Philipsburg, two small towns that punch way above their weight, both about 30 minutes from the hill. It also gets some Missoula-area skiers, willing to drive 90 minutes for a hill that’s just objectively better than their closest one.

On average, it receives just 150 inches of snow each year, the second-lowest of any Montana ski hill (sorry, Bear Paw). You wouldn’t think that little amount of snow could create amazing skiing conditions – but at Discovery, it does.

What really sets Discovery apart from the pack is its versatility and its value, with incredibly varied terrain at a discounted price – something you can’t really get anywhere else in Montana.

Sure, Big Sky and Whitefish have enough runs to please both expert powder hounds and those strapping on skis for the first time. That variety comes at a cost, though, which is especially hard to justify when you have an entire family in tow. On the flip side, tickets are inexpensive at Blacktail and Bear Paw, but their terrain won’t challenge expert skiers.

But Disco threads the needle, offering a relatively low-cost experience that’s both challenging and fun, for skiers at all levels. It’s a place you can actually afford to bring the whole family, and nobody will get bored or feel out of their league.

The Mountain You Didn’t Know You’d Love Skiing

Discovery can be split into four neat categories, each accessed by its own lift. Technically there are five lifts, but Rumsey and Anaconda run parallel to each other and reach the same terrain, with Anaconda only operating on the busier days. This split makes it easy for non-locals to plan their routes without worrying they’ll end up on something they can’t handle.

Starting with the frontside, there are a some carpets down by the lodge for training first-time skiers and boarders. The Jubilee, a triple chair, runs up to a couple beginner runs and a slightly-harder intermediate one. It’s also the way to Discovery’s two terrain parks.

Across from Jubilee, but still on the frontside, are the groomed runs, reached by the aforementioned Rumsey and Anaconda lifts. These are solidly steep trails, a mix of blacks and blues, but nothing too technical. They’re pleasant corduroy, made for big carving while catching some amazing views of nearby Georgetown Lake.

The backside of the mountain, only fully opened in the ‘90s with the Granite and Limelight lifts, is where things get a whole lot more interesting. More than a dozen double-blacks dot the backside, plus nearly as many blacks.

While the Granite lift hits a few steep but groomed blacks, Limelight only accesses the tree-laden chutes of the double-blacks. That expert-only terrain is one aspect that really sets Discovery apart from other ski hills in the area. And since it’s isolated on the mountain’s backside, you can keep pounding through these chutes without needing to take two chairs or contend with the crowds riding more moderate terrain.

Though, if we’re being honest, there aren’t crowds anywhere on the mountain. Even when you’re shooting down one of the more popular groomers on the frontside, there’s a chance you’ll be the only person in sight. Discovery Ski Area just isn’t on very many people’s radar yet, and with such a small population around it, the locals certainly aren’t jamming up the lifts.

It’s not all roses, though. Unlike many of the other ski resorts in southwestern Montana, Discovery struggles with its snowpack. Sure, it’s got the dry-as-a-bone “cold smoke” powder, but it’s in limited supply. Once a solid base is in place though, those chilly Montana winds keep it intact until March.

Runs are, admittedly, a little mushy towards the end of the season, but who doesn’t enjoy some spring skiing? And as they say: even a bad day on the slopes is better than a good day of, well, most anything else. But if the snow gets too sticky (or becomes an unruly sheet of ice), there are still plenty of other things to do near Discovery Ski Area.

The Ski Culture You Want at a Price You Can Afford

Not to sound like the old man in the room, but our current crop of ski bums are the last of a dying breed. Climate change is, without a doubt, going to decimate the sport as we know it. Temperatures are rising, snowfall is getting more unpredictable, and it seems like only the largest, most well-funded resorts have any chance of staying afloat.

To compensate for the uncertainty, most hills jack up their ticket prices, making the sport even less inclusive than it already is. So, how does the owner of a ski hill protect the culture we’ve come to cherish, and keep it cheap enough that locals can actually still afford to ski?

It starts with sticking to the basics. Frills are kept to a minimum at Discovery, with all six of the chairlifts purchased secondhand from larger resorts. They aren’t the fastest by a longshot, and there’s nary a quad to be found, but they get the job done.

The lodge is like many at Montana ski hills, serving the staples of burgers, brats, and beer. While its Tap ‘Er Lite bar is a great spot for a lunch break, they’re only open on weekends and just from 11:00am-2:00pm.

But one place where Discovery goes above and beyond is with its on-site bakery – and its famous cookies. They’re not even really a cookie, more bready and soft – like a scone. They’ve been making them for 40 years, ever since Discovery was turned over to the Pitcher family, and the recipe is a closely-guarded secret.

No one drives an hour or more for culture and cookies, though. If the mountain didn’t also offer killer terrain, Discovery would have closed with the mines.

Places to Stay near Discovery

You have a few options for accommodations when skiing at Discovery. Butte is hour away, if you prefer staying in a larger town and don’t mind the drive. But Anaconda and Philipsburg are closer, just 30 minutes from the hill, and both are fun little towns.

Anaconda is the larger of the two and has far more amenities, like full-sized grocery stores, a variety of restaurants, and attractions that are actually open in the winter.

What Philipsburg lacks in size, though, it more than makes up for with rustic charm. Plus, Philipsburg Brewing Company is consistently ranked as one of the best in the state, and it’s home to the Sweet Palace, (possibly?) the world’s largest candy store!

Pintler’s Portal Hostel

For the ski bums, there’s no more affordable place to crash than the dorm beds at Anaconda’s hostel. Less than $40 gets you a bed, access to a full kitchen, coin-op laundry to wash your funked up gear, and a cozy fireplace to swap stories with fellow skiers and boarders. Book out a dorm room with a few friends, and you can slash that per bed price in half.

The Forge Hotel

Bunk beds and an orchestra of snoring strangers not your cup of tea? The Forge is both Anaconda’s newest hotel and its most luxurious. Rooms are modern, with dark hardwood floors and plush beds. Breakfast is included, and there’s even an indoor pool and a hot tub for soaking your weary muscles. This being low season in Anaconda, you can book the nicest of hotels for a fraction of what it’d cost in better-known ski towns like Bozeman.

Kaiser House Hotel

Montana doesn’t get more picturesque than Philipsburg in the winter, when a blanket of snow drapes the facades of its beautifully-preserved Victorian buildings dotting the main street.

The Kaiser House takes the charm level a few notches higher, with exposed brick interiors, original hardwood floors, and French doors that transport you to Philipsburg’s turn-of-the-century heyday. There’s even a wine shop in the basement! It only has four rooms, so be sure to book early for your Discovery Basin ski trip.

Things to Do Near Discovery Ski Area: Philipsburg & Anaconda

Cross-Country Skiing Near Discovery

Nothing compares to the thrill of bouncing through moguls on Motherlode or rocketing down Orphan Girl on Discovery’s backside, but sometimes you need a quieter, slower, and perhaps more aerobic experience to break up the powder days.

Fortunately, the Anaconda area has an embarrassment of riches when it comes to cross-country skiing, with the Echo Lake trail system just beyond Discovery’s parking lot and the Mount Haggin trails north of town. Both offer 20+ kms of trails with varying difficulties and grooming levels.

Don’t have your own gear? The rental shop at Disco carries Nordic equipment, including metal-edged skis for adventuring outside the tracks.

Philipsburg, MT

Fuel Up with Pastries from Sherry’s.

The most important meal of the day, if you skip breakfast before skiing, you’re gonna have a bad time. Before heading up to the hill, stop into Sherry’s Homestyle Bakery for a breakfast burrito, cinnamon roll (huckleberry if they’ve got them), and a cup of coffee.

Browse for Treats at the Sweet Palace.

Don’t dawdle getting your boots off when the lifts stop turning, because you’ll want to get down to the Sweet Palace before it closes at five. Budget at least half an hour to browse the candy shop, if not longer.

There are over a thousand different kinds of candy and chocolate, everything from coconut curry cashews to ginger snap toffee. You’ll need to make some difficult decisions or risk ending up with twenty pounds of the stuff.

Lace Up Your Skates at the Philipsburg Outdoor Rink.

Montana ski trips can be about more than just skiing; they can be an embrace of all things winter. Fortunately, Philipsburg has one of the best outdoor ice rinks in the state, and skates and helmet rentals are completely free.

Stick Around for Music at the Philipsburg Brewery.

I always recommend sampling something from the local brewery, but Philipsburg Brewing really punches above its weight. There’s live music every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, and it’s housed in the historic Sayrs Bank building, where beers are served straight out the old vault. Doesn’t get any classier than that.

Anaconda, MT

Caffeinate at the Coffee Corral.

Start the day off right with a cup of joe and some delicious baked goods from this Anaconda mainstay. Wagon wheel chandeliers, elk heads on the wall, and bathrooms reminiscent of an old-timey outhouse (they’re regular toilets! just the facade is vintage) make the Coffee Corral a truly Montana experience.

Savor Old-School Italian at O’Bella!

Anaconda’s been a haven for immigrants ever since Marcus Daly built the city’s smelter in the 1880s. With them came some pretty delicious foods from the old country – Cornish pasties, Balkan baklava, and of course, some of the best Italian food west of the Mississippi.

The mining operations and smelter shut down in the early ‘80s, but that old-world Italian flavor carries on at O’Bella!, serving the best chicken parm and pizzas in the area.

Enjoy a Pint at Smelter City Brewing.

Operating out of Anaconda’s historic Electric Light Building, Smelter City Brewing has the rustic atmosphere necessary for proper après ski. Exposed brick walls, vintage ceiling fans, and a massive mirror behind the bar transports patrons back to Anaconda’s heyday in the 1920s.

There’s also a killer beer selection, free popcorn, and live music throughout the season, and the caboose on the patio houses The Anaconda Taco Company.

Skate on Kennedy Commons.

Every winter, Anaconda floods its central green space, Kennedy Commons, creating a winter wonderland in the heart of downtown. Skating is free, and rentals are available from Sven’s Bicycles, which are $8 for adults and $5 for kids.

Catch a Flick at the Washoe Theater.

I love old school independent movie theaters, the kind with big marquee signs and lavishly decorated interiors, that only show one or two films at a time, where you can’t buy tickets on your phone, and the concessions are simple – popcorn and candy.

Anaconda’s Washoe Theater, across from Kennedy Commons, ranks as one of the best. When it was built, the Smithsonian Institute recognized it as one of the five most beautiful theaters in America. It’s certainly my favorite Montana movie theater. While most movies start at 7:00pm, Saturday and Sunday showings are at 5:00pm, so you may need to leave the hill a bit early to catch it.

Have I convinced you to make a trip to Discovery Ski Area?

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